Just as Wella Professionals’ Bronde Luxe Collection harnesses the power of light to reveal hairs’ nuanced tones, Autumn Winter 2016’s makeup trends utilise lightness and luminosity for an elevated everyday beauty look (think velvety skin, gleaming cheekbones, and plush nude shades). We asked makeup maestro Peter Schell to guide us through the new pared-down perfection.
“I really wanted to move away from this idea of concentrating on just one feature, like a smokey eye or a strong lip,” explains Peter, flipping open a pristine palette of powdery nude eye shadows. “The notion that ‘winter’ looks should be dark and sultry is so predictable. I wanted our models to look like super-enhanced versions of themselves, and to appear to be glowing as if lit from within.” The first step in creating these hyper-real visages was to apply a luminescing foundation after prepping skin with primer, then to buff finely milled matte powder over the entire visage for a luxe, velvet-like finish. A single sweep of semi-shimmer bronzer down each cheekbone proved all the contouring necessary; deft-handed dabs of highlighter on the outer eye socket and brow bone were used to subtly emphasise bone structure.
If there is one focus this season, however, it is brows. “Defined eyebrows have been trending for a while now,” explains Schell, “but I recommend resisting the urge to over-pencil – simply keep your arches looking natural and tidy.” A tiny amount of colour-match powder was brushed through hairs before combing through for instant “face-framing.” Lids, meanwhile, were blended up to the socket in dusky hues of mink, putty, and shell, tones that were then blended out onto the temples in smooth circular motions. “I decided to take lips one shade deeper than eye shadow,” says Schell, who blended lipstick with clear gloss for textural contrast. “This way I achieved some kind of definition while maintaining an overall feeling of harmony and tonality.”
A seamless play on light and shadow, softness is central to the new neutral luxe. As Schell puts it: “Why fuss around creating a statement face when you can so easily play up your own sensuality?”
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