DKNY is a brand that has always had New York City, and the women who live there, at its heart and soul. The AW16 collection was a significant step towards a bolder, more modern New Yorker, featuring youthful interpretations of classic shapes and fabrics. The hair look reflected this step into the future, with styles ranging from intricate, artful bound-braids to loose, low buns and high side ponytails. Read on to discover how Wella Professionals Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman brought a touch of Wella flair to the hair look at DKNY.
The inspiration for DKNY’s AW16 show started with the brand itself and its under-stated cool, New Yorker glamour. Eugene wanted a style that reflected the personality and individuality of each model and brought the fun factor to fashion week, perfect for the DKNY ethos. On the looks, he shares: “We’ve actually created about four different styles here – we’ve got high and side ponytails, loose buns, rough waves and bound-braids. It’s a mash-up of city girl style through the ages, which is what New York is all about and I think this collection of looks really celebrates that diversity.”
THE KEY TECHNIQUE
Eugene’s favourite technique at DKNY was the bound-braid – a cornrow style row wrapping around the model’s head and tied with white elastic to add contrast and a design feature to the look. He says: “This is one of my favourite looks from the show. We’re using the white elastic so that the braid really stands out in the girls’ hair and I think it makes it look really modern and current. By binding the hair rather than the usual braid, we’re creating something that looks different and unexpected, which looks really cool and that’s what DKNY is all about.”
To start, Eugene sectioned off a thin row of hair from ear to ear, tying off the bottom and top to keep it out of the way. Then, starting at each ear, Eugene created two braids by binding the hair to the scalp using white elastic in one inch sections, working back to the center of the crown. To hide the join, he tied the two braids and the top section of the hair into a ponytail at the middle of the back of the head.
To finish the look, Eugene sprayed the ponytail with EIMI Sugar Lift to add texture and folded it in half and secured with more white elastic in a loose folded bun. The lower half of the hair (below the bound-braid) was left loose and sprayed with System Professional Hydrate Finish to add definition before the whole style was sprayed with EIMI Stay Essential hairspray for a flexible hold as the models walked the runway.
The result was a nineties hip-hop meets fashion-girl edge, classic New York identities mashed up into one modern expression of what it means to live in New York City today – endlessly free to invent and reinvent yourself, and give expression to that through hair and fashion alike.
Watch the video tutorial now to recreate the look: