Something about Antonio Berardi’s AW16 show was darkly seductive, an element of gothic-chic that emanated a spooky yet sexy vibe. Models decked in lace and silk seemed almost ethereal on the runway, and Wella Professionals Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman was tasked with finding the perfect hair look to enhance the dark beauty of the collection. Read on to discover how Eugene achieved the sleek, bold look that brought Antonio Berardi’s collection together.
Everything about Antonio Berardi’s AW16 collection is highly polished, from the cut of the clothes to the choice of materials, so the hair needed to reflect this sophisticated style. Eugene looked to 1930’s Berlin for inspiration and created a sleek, high-shine style, with lightweight movement in the lengths that would float as the girls walk the catwalk.
On the look, Eugene says: “It’s all about perfection and creating this sleek, sharp shape to the top of the hair. We started with a deep side part, which looks quite masculine, and literally painted on the products so that it will really shine under the lights. But we’ve also softened it with a light, rawer texture in the lengths to add movement.” The juxtaposition of feminine flow in the lengths with masculine style at the roots and part came together as the fashion-forward, severe style that enhanced the collection’s sophisticated point of view.
THE KEY TECHNIQUE
To prep the hair, Eugene applied EIMI Perfect Setting to add control as he blow dried the hair. Once it was completely dry, he created a deep side part, making sure the line was very sharp. Eugene smoothed the hair from the parting out, applying EIMI Stay Essential hairspray and combing it over to slick the hair down. To add shine and ensure the front of the hair stayed perfectly in place, Eugene painted on EIMI Sculpt Force gel over the entire frontsection, creating an ultra-glossy finish that he highlighted further by spraying on EIMI Glam Mist.
On how he achieved the desired effect, Eugene shares: “We really wanted to create a blend of textures – we have the super shiny, smooth top and in the lengths we wanted to have a bit more movement. To achieve this, we’re twisting the hair tightly and spraying with hairspray, then applying heat and leaving the twist in as it cools. It’s almost like a modern-day set – in the past we would have done this with rollers, and this way we still get a really nice, slightly raw, texture.”
Eugene pulled the hair back, as if creating a low ponytail, and twisted it around itself. He spritzed with EIMI Stay Essential hairspray and applied heat using a hairdryer with a diffuser hood. He twisted the hair into a bun to cool, then allowed it to fall naturally, using his hands to maximise the texture. The result was a sleek, slicked-back, almost wet look that emanated high shine and polished finish, perfect for both short hair and long hair.
Watch the video tutorial now to recreate the look: