What Is Ammonia-Free Hair Color & How Does It Work?

Let's talk about ammonia-free hair color. Simply put, it's a hair color that, instead of using ammonia to help your shade develop, uses an alternative alkalizing ingredient to achieve similar results. The benefits? While not every ammonia-free color is the same, the right formula may offer a gentler color experience, a more pleasant odor and, depending on the product, may feel more comfortable on the scalp.

But how do you know if ammonia-free color is right for you? Here's everything you need to know, from how it works to the key benefits for you and your hair...

What is Ammonia-Free Hair Color? A Closer Look

As the name suggests, ammonia-free hair color is a color that's free from ammonia – the alkalizing ingredient that helps the hair cuticle swell and open, so color molecules can penetrate the hair. In ammonia-free colors, an alternative alkalizing ingredient is used to create the ideal conditions for your shade to develop, so you still enjoy the beautiful shine and vibrant color you want.

But not all ammonia-free colors are the same. First of all, there are two main types:

• Permanent color without ammonia, which is designed for up to 100% grey coverage and long-lasting color.
• Demi-permanent color without ammonia, which is designed for toning, adding shine and providing soft grey coverage.

And, within those types, the formulations can also differ. Whether or not your color contains ammonia is just one piece of the puzzle; the supporting ingredients and the overall formula also play a crucial role in how your hair looks and feels.

How Does Ammonia-Free Hair Color Work?

This is the technical part. For demi-permanent or permanent hair colors to be effective, they usually need to contain an alkalizer – an ingredient that raises the pH of the formula, so the cuticle swells and lets hair dye molecules inside. Ammonia is widely used in permanent colors, as it's the most effective alkalizing ingredient. But ammonia-free permanent hair colors can create a similar color transformation by using alternative alkalizing ingredients.

MEA (monoethanolamine) is a popular alkalizing choice and you'll find it at different concentrations in all of our ammonia-free colors: the demi-permanent SHINEFINITY and Color Touch ranges, and the permanent Pure Perfection palette.

One key difference is that MEA is a larger molecule than ammonia, and as a result, it’s a less effective alkalizer. This means that, on its own, MEA doesn’t deliver the maximum performance you expect from a permanent color. So, when ammonia is replaced by MEA, the formula needs targeted adjustments to achieve high color performance while also caring for hair quality.

What Are the Benefits of Ammonia-Free Hair Color?

1. A Gentler Color Experience

For some people, ammonia-free hair color can provide a gentler color experience, mainly due to the lack of that distinctive ammonia odor, as well as improved scalp comfort. However, ammonia-free doesn't mean damage-free, and the impact on the hair’s condition depends on the entire formulation, with the supporting ingredients also playing a role in how your final result looks and feels. Your Wella Professionals colorist is best placed to advise on the right color product for you, as they'll choose a formula – with or without ammonia – suited to your hair type, condition and goals.

2. Less of the Distinctive Ammonia Odor

Ammonia has a characteristic, pungent odor that some can find unpleasant, while alkalizers like MEA tend to have no noticeable smell. So, if you find the smell of ammonia-based colors unpleasant, an ammonia-free color may offer a more comfortable salon experience.

3. Vibrant Color and Beautiful Shine

Today's ammonia-free hair colors can deliver vibrant, dimensional color and beautiful shine, depending on the formula used and the result you're looking for. Case in point: Color Touch gives you true-to-tone vibrancy and shine in a demi-permanent palette of 90+ shades, while SHINEFINITY creates a translucent veil of color for hair that's up to 250% shinier¹. Meanwhile, Pure Perfection is your permanent ammonia-free option, designed to deliver rich, radiant color and up to 100% grey coverage.

“AMMONIA-FREE HAIR COLOR OFFERS MORE COMFORT AND A MORE PLEASANT EXPERIENCE.”

Romeu Felipe (@romeufelipe), Wella Professionals Global Ambassador

Is Ammonia-Free Color as Effective as Ammonia-Based Color?

While ammonia-based color is most effective, ammonia-free hair color can still deliver high-performing color results. But whether it's the right choice for you depends on the formula and your desired results. Early ammonia-free formulas had a reputation for delivering less intense or long-lasting results, but advances in color technology have changed what's possible. Today, MEA, at the right concentration, can deliver comparable coverage and color intensity to ammonia-based color – when it's used as part of a well-designed, high-performance formula.

There is one more thing to consider. MEA, the popular ammonia alternative, can create an environment in which metals naturally present in your hair can become highly reactive during the color development process. Wella scientists discovered that both copper and iron can contribute to hair damage during this process – especially in permanent colors – highlighting the importance of managing metals when developing ammonia-free color formulas.

This is why all of our ammonia-free hair colors contain Metal Purifier. And, in our permanent line, Pure Perfection, the Wella-exclusive technology, Supercharged Metal Purifier, encapsulates both copper and iron, helping to control the stress MEA creates when your color develops. Only now, with the development of Supercharged Metal Purifier, does ammonia-free permanent color meet Wella Professionals' high standards for your hair, giving you advanced metal protection and color in one.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Color Right For You?

Ammonia-free hair color may be right for you if you're looking for a gentler color experience for your scalp, as well as a less distinctive odor as your shade develops. But there's no one-size-fits-all answer; whether it's suitable for you comes down to hair type, condition and desired results. The best way to find out? Speak with your Wella Professionals colorist, who can recommend a product that hits every one of your goals.

Find Your Perfect Ammonia-Free Color with Wella Professionals

You'll get your most accurate color recommendation in the salon, but if you like to go in with some up-front knowledge (who doesn't?), here's your quick guide to our ammonia-free colors...

• For true-to-tone vibrancy and shine, ask for Color Touch. The iconic demi-permanent color offers a palette of 90+ shades, up to 50% grey coverage², and a beautifully rich finish that fades over 28 washes.
• For a translucent veil of glossy color, ask for SHINEFINITY. Leaving hair up to 250% shinier¹, this zero-damage acidic color glaze is ideal for toning blondes, correcting brassy tones and enhancing your shade with a mirror-like finish.
• For a permanent color that reduces signs of damage², ask for Pure Perfection. This one-of-a-kind permanent color improves shine (+55%) and smoothness (+45%), while leaving hair looking more nourished (+42%). Plus, it gives you up to 100% grey coverage.

“IF I HAD TO DESCRIBE PURE PERFECTION IN THREE WORDS, IT WOULD BE: PURE, WEIGHTLESS AND NATURAL.”

– Briana Cisneros (@brianacisneros), Wella Professionals Global Ambassador

Ammonia-Free Hair Color FAQs

Does Ammonia-Free Hair Color Cover Grey Hair Effectively?

Yes, some ammonia-free hair colors can provide effective grey coverage. The level of coverage depends on the color technology and formula you choose. For example, demi-permanent Color Touch provides up to 70% grey coverage², while Pure Perfection, a permanent color, delivers up to 50% grey coverage. Your colorist can recommend the right option based on your percentage of grey and desired result.

How Long Does Ammonia-Free Hair Color Last Compared to Regular Dye?

How long ammonia-free hair color lasts will vary from product to product, and is also based on the type of service you get. While demi-permanent Color Touch fades beautifully over 28 washes, a permanent color, like Pure Perfection, permanently changes the color of the hair and grows out as your natural hair comes through. The longevity of your color will depend on the formula you choose, the salon service, and your color care routine.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Dye Better for a Sensitive Scalp?

Being ammonia-free doesn't mean a formula is automatically suitable for a sensitive scalp. But for some people who experience scalp discomfort, certain ammonia-free hair colors may be a gentler option. Before trying a new color, your Wella colorist will advise on any required sensitivity or allergy alert testing to ensure the formula suits your needs.

What Is the Difference Between Semi-Permanent, Demi-Permanent, and Permanent Ammonia-Free Hair Color?

Semi-permanent, demi-permanent and permanent hair colors differ in how they interact with the hair and how long the color lasts.

• Semi-permanent color generally deposits color onto the surface of hair, making it a low-commitment option. Because it's not designed to penetrate the cuticle, it's always formulated without an alkalizer (including ammonia and MEA).
• Demi-permanent, ammonia-free hair color uses a lower level of alkalizing agent (MEA) to help color penetrate the first layers of the hair, so it typically lasts longer than semi-permanent color.
• Permanent ammonia-free color uses higher levels of an alkalizing agent (MEA) to enable lift, up to 100% grey coverage and longer-lasting color.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Dye Also PPD-Free and Vegan?

Not all ammonia-free hair colors will be vegan and PPD-free, so if you're concerned about specific ingredients, talk with your Wella Professionals colorist before your color service. They may recommend Pure Perfection, which ticks all of the boxes. Not only is it dermatologically tested on sensitive skin, but it's also free from ammonia, fragrance, mineral oil, silicones and PPD/PTD³.

Find a Wella Professionals Salon Near You

Ready to find your perfect ammonia-free color? Find a Wella Professionals salon near you and speak with a professional colorist about the right formula for your hair goals.

¹ Vs. untreated bleached hair.

² 2+55% shine, +45% smoothness, +42% nourished look; vs untreated hair, based on expert grading clinical study

³ Do not use this product if you have a known PPD/PTD allergy, as you may still experience a severe allergic reaction.