What Is Ammonia-Free Hair Colour & How Does It Work?

Let's talk about ammonia-free hair colour. Simply put, it's a hair colour that, instead of using ammonia to help your shade develop, uses an alternative alkalizing ingredient to achieve similar results. The benefits? While not every ammonia-free colour is the same, the right formula may offer a gentler colour experience, a more pleasant odor and, depending on the product, may feel more comfortable on the scalp.

But how do you know if ammonia-free colour is right for you? Here's everything you need to know, from how it works to the key benefits for you and your hair...

What is Ammonia-Free Hair Colour? A Closer Look

As the name suggests, ammonia-free hair colour is a colour that's free from ammonia – the alkalizing ingredient that helps the hair cuticle swell and open, so colour molecules can penetrate the hair. In ammonia-free colours, an alternative alkalizing ingredient is used to create the ideal conditions for your shade to develop, so you still enjoy the beautiful shine and vibrant colour you want.

But not all ammonia-free colours are the same. First of all, there are two main types:

• Permanent colour without ammonia, which is designed for up to 100% grey coverage and long-lasting colour.
• Demi-permanent colour without ammonia, which is designed for toning, adding shine and providing soft grey coverage.

And, within those types, the formulations can also differ. Whether or not your colour contains ammonia is just one piece of the puzzle; the supporting ingredients and the overall formula also play a crucial role in how your hair looks and feels.

How Does Ammonia-Free Hair Colour Work?

This is the technical part. For demi-permanent or permanent hair colours to be effective, they usually need to contain an alkalizer – an ingredient that raises the pH of the formula, so the cuticle swells and lets hair dye molecules inside. Ammonia is widely used in permanent colours, as it's the most effective alkalizing ingredient. But ammonia-free permanent hair colours can create a similar colour transformation by using alternative alkalizing ingredients.

MEA (monoethanolamine) is a popular alkalizing choice and you'll find it at different concentrations in all of our ammonia-free colours: the demi-permanent SHINEFINITY and Color Touch ranges, and the permanent Pure Perfection palette.

One key difference is that MEA is a larger molecule than ammonia, and as a result, it’s a less effective alkalizer. This means that, on its own, MEA doesn’t deliver the maximum performance you expect from a permanent colour. So, when ammonia is replaced by MEA, the formula needs targeted adjustments to achieve high colour performance while also caring for hair quality.

What Are the Benefits of Ammonia-Free Hair Colour?

1. A Gentler Colour Experience

For some people, ammonia-free hair colour can provide a gentler colour experience, mainly due to the lack of that distinctive ammonia odor, as well as improved scalp comfort. However, ammonia-free doesn't mean damage-free, and the impact on the hair’s condition depends on the entire formulation, with the supporting ingredients also playing a role in how your final result looks and feels. Your Wella Professionals colourist is best placed to advise on the right colour product for you, as they'll choose a formula – with or without ammonia – suited to your hair type, condition and goals.

2. Less of the Distinctive Ammonia Odor

Ammonia has a characteristic, pungent odor that some can find unpleasant, while alkalizers like MEA tend to have no noticeable smell. So, if you find the smell of ammonia-based colours unpleasant, an ammonia-free colour may offer a more comfortable salon experience.

3. Vibrant Colour and Beautiful Shine

Today's ammonia-free hair colours can deliver vibrant, dimensional colour and beautiful shine, depending on the formula used and the result you're looking for. Case in point: Color Touch gives you true-to-tone vibrancy and shine in a demi-permanent palette of 90+ shades, while SHINEFINITY creates a translucent veil of colour for hair that's up to 250% shinier¹. Meanwhile, Pure Perfection is your permanent ammonia-free option, designed to deliver rich, radiant colour and up to 100% grey coverage.

“AMMONIA-FREE HAIR COLOUR OFFERS MORE COMFORT AND A MORE PLEASANT EXPERIENCE.”

Romeu Felipe (@romeufelipe), Wella Professionals Global Ambassador

Is Ammonia-Free Colour as Effective as Ammonia-Based Colour?

While ammonia-based colour is most effective, ammonia-free hair colour can still deliver high-performing colour results. But whether it's the right choice for you depends on the formula and your desired results. Early ammonia-free formulas had a reputation for delivering less intense or long-lasting results, but advances in colour technology have changed what's possible. Today, MEA, at the right concentration, can deliver comparable coverage and colour intensity to ammonia-based colour – when it's used as part of a well-designed, high-performance formula.

There is one more thing to consider. MEA, the popular ammonia alternative, can create an environment in which metals naturally present in your hair can become highly reactive during the colour development process. Wella scientists discovered that both copper and iron can contribute to hair damage during this process – especially in permanent colours – highlighting the importance of managing metals when developing ammonia-free colour formulas.

This is why all of our ammonia-free hair colours contain Metal Purifier. And, in our permanent line, Pure Perfection, the Wella-exclusive technology, Supercharged Metal Purifier, encapsulates both copper and iron, helping to control the stress MEA creates when your colour develops. Only now, with the development of Supercharged Metal Purifier, does ammonia-free permanent colour meet Wella Professionals' high standards for your hair, giving you advanced metal protection and colour in one.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Colour Right For You?

Ammonia-free hair colour may be right for you if you're looking for a gentler colour experience for your scalp, as well as a less distinctive odor as your shade develops. But there's no one-size-fits-all answer; whether it's suitable for you comes down to hair type, condition and desired results. The best way to find out? Speak with your Wella Professionals colourist, who can recommend a product that hits every one of your goals.

Find Your Perfect Ammonia-Free Colour with Wella Professionals

You'll get your most accurate colour recommendation in the salon, but if you like to go in with some up-front knowledge (who doesn't?), here's your quick guide to our ammonia-free colours...

• For true-to-tone vibrancy and shine, ask for Color Touch. The iconic demi-permanent colour offers a palette of 90+ shades, up to 50% grey coverage², and a beautifully rich finish that fades over 28 washes.
• For a translucent veil of glossy colour, ask for SHINEFINITY. Leaving hair up to 250% shinier¹, this zero-damage acidic colour glaze is ideal for toning blondes, correcting brassy tones and enhancing your shade with a mirror-like finish.
• For a permanent colour that reduces signs of damage², ask for Pure Perfection. This one-of-a-kind permanent colour improves shine (+55%) and smoothness (+45%), while leaving hair looking more nourished (+42%). Plus, it gives you up to 100% grey coverage.

“IF I HAD TO DESCRIBE PURE PERFECTION IN THREE WORDS, IT WOULD BE: PURE, WEIGHTLESS AND NATURAL.”

– Briana Cisneros (@brianacisneros), Wella Professionals Global Ambassador

Ammonia-Free Hair Colour FAQs

Does Ammonia-Free Hair Colour Cover Grey Hair Effectively?

Yes, some ammonia-free hair colours can provide effective grey coverage. The level of coverage depends on the colour technology and formula you choose. For example, demi-permanent Color Touch provides up to 70% grey coverage², while Pure Perfection, a permanent colour, delivers up to 50% grey coverage. Your colourist can recommend the right option based on your percentage of grey and desired result.

How Long Does Ammonia-Free Hair Colour Last Compared to Regular Dye?

How long ammonia-free hair colour lasts will vary from product to product, and is also based on the type of service you get. While demi-permanent Color Touch fades beautifully over 28 washes, a permanent colour, like Pure Perfection, permanently changes the colour of the hair and grows out as your natural hair comes through. The longevity of your colour will depend on the formula you choose, the salon service, and your colour care routine.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Dye Better for a Sensitive Scalp?

Being ammonia-free doesn't mean a formula is automatically suitable for a sensitive scalp. But for some people who experience scalp discomfort, certain ammonia-free hair colours may be a gentler option. Before trying a new colour, your Wella colourist will advise on any required sensitivity or allergy alert testing to ensure the formula suits your needs.

What Is the Difference Between Semi-Permanent, Demi-Permanent, and Permanent Ammonia-Free Hair Colour?

Semi-permanent, demi-permanent and permanent hair colours differ in how they interact with the hair and how long the colour lasts.

• Semi-permanent colour generally deposits colour onto the surface of hair, making it a low-commitment option. Because it's not designed to penetrate the cuticle, it's always formulated without an alkalizer (including ammonia and MEA).
• Demi-permanent, ammonia-free hair colour uses a lower level of alkalizing agent (MEA) to help colour penetrate the first layers of the hair, so it typically lasts longer than semi-permanent colour.
• Permanent ammonia-free colour uses higher levels of an alkalizing agent (MEA) to enable lift, up to 100% grey coverage and longer-lasting colour.

Is Ammonia-Free Hair Dye Also PPD-Free and Vegan?

Not all ammonia-free hair colours will be vegan and PPD-free, so if you're concerned about specific ingredients, talk with your Wella Professionals colourist before your colour service. They may recommend Pure Perfection, which ticks all of the boxes. Not only is it dermatologically tested on sensitive skin, but it's also free from ammonia, fragrance, mineral oil, silicones and PPD/PTD³.

Find a Wella Professionals Salon Near You

Ready to find your perfect ammonia-free colour? Find a Wella Professionals salon near you and speak with a professional colourist about the right formula for your hair goals.

¹ Vs. untreated bleached hair.

² 2+55% shine, +45% smoothness, +42% nourished look; vs untreated hair, based on expert grading clinical study

³ Do not use this product if you have a known PPD/PTD allergy, as you may still experience a severe allergic reaction.