Ammonia-free vs. ammonia-based hair color: which is right for you? While they both deliver beautiful, long-lasting results, they work in slightly different ways to achieve your dream shade. The key difference lies in the alkalizing ingredient that helps your chosen shade develop. While ammonia-based formulas use ammonia, ammonia-free alternatives often use ingredients like monoethanolamine (MEA).
So, which formula should you choose? From lift and grey coverage to hair health and color longevity, each has its own benefits and considerations. Here's what you need to know to find the right option for your hair goals…
What Does Ammonia Do in Hair Color?
Ammonia is an alkalizing ingredient that raises the pH level of your hair, allowing it to open up the hair cuticle, so pigments can penetrate each strand. It's used in ammonia-based demi-permanent and permanent hair colors to give you the long-lasting, beautifully vibrant results you want. And while there are some drawbacks – its pungent smell, for example – it's known for being one of the most effective (and most popular) alkalizers in the hair industry.
So, How Does Ammonia-Free Hair Color Achieve Results Without Ammonia?
First of all, it's important to remember that not all hair colors need an alkalizer like ammonia. Temporary and semi-permanent hair dyes are low-commitment options that are not designed to penetrate the cuticle. But when you want more than a temporary color change, you need a demi-permanent or permanent product that works beyond the surface of your hair. Ammonia-free hair colors do this by harnessing an alternative alkalizer, with MEA being one of the most widely used.
MEA, like ammonia, has the ability to lift the hair cuticle so color molecules can penetrate, but it can offer a gentler salon experience, depending on the formula it's used in. Some ammonia-free hair colors may be less damaging to hair, some may be kinder to your scalp, and almost all of them avoid the pungent odor that ammonia can throw off.
Ammonia-Free vs. Ammonia-Based Hair Color: Comparing Results & Hair Health
Ammonia-free and ammonia-based hair colors can both deliver stunning results, but the coverage, lift and longevity they offer can vary. So, let's compare the two side by side...
| Results | Ammonia-Based Hair Color | Ammonia-Free Hair Color |
|---|---|---|
How it Works | Uses ammonia to raise the hair's pH and lift the cuticle, so color molecules can penetrate. | Uses an alternative alkalizer to raise the hair's pH and lift the cuticle, so color molecules can penetrate. |
Lift | Can be particularly effective for toning and lifting hair in one step. | Depends on the specific formulation; some ammonia-free colors are designed primarily for deposit rather than high lift. |
Grey Coverage | Can provide a high level of grey coverage when formulated for permanent color | Can provide effective grey blending or coverage, depending on the product and percentage of grey. |
Hair Condition | Results depend on the overall formula, developer and service – not ammonia alone. | Some formulas may provide a gentler-feeling color service, but 'ammonia-free' does not automatically mean damage-free. |
Odor | Ammonia has a distinctive, pungent odor. | No distinctive odor. |
Scalp Comfort | Some clients may find ammonia-containing formulas uncomfortable. | May be preferable for clients concerned about scalp discomfort, but it isn't a guarantee against irritation. |
Best Suited To | Services where reliable lift, permanent color or maximum grey coverage are priorities. | Clients prioritizing an ammonia-free formulation, color refresh, tonal results or a gentler salon experience. |
The Truth About Ammonia-Free Hair Color and Damage
Let's get to the part you really want to know: is ammonia-free hair color actually better for your hair? The truth is, ammonia-free doesn't automatically mean a color is damage-free. Alkalizing alternatives, like MEA, still lift the cuticle in order to deposit color inside the hair shaft, so your hair can still experience stress during the coloring process.
There's another factor worth knowing about: metals in your hair. Iron and copper can build up through strands over time, and MEA can create an environment in which these metals become reactive and cause damage during the coloring process. Wella Professionals scientists discovered this is particularly problematic in ammonia-free permanent colors, highlighting the importance of metal protection in these formulas.
So, in short: how gentle ammonia-free and ammonia-based colors are depends on their whole formulation. The supporting ingredients have a big impact on the look, feel and condition of your freshly colored hair. At Wella, we believe in no-compromise color – which is why all of our ammonia-free colors feature Metal Purifier. And, in our permanent ammonia-free line, Pure Perfection, our Supercharged Metal Purifier encapsulates both copper and iron to reduce the stress MEA can create.
Who Should Consider Ammonia-Free Hair Color?
Ammonia-free hair color could be your ideal choice if:
- You want a gentler salon experience. Not everyone enjoys the smell of ammonia – it can be pretty pungent! – so if it's a deal-breaker for you, ammonia-free colors come with no distinctive odor.
- You have a sensitive scalp. While not all ammonia-free hair colors are gentler on the scalp, anyone who finds ammonia specifically irritating may find alternatives are more suitable for their skin.
- You want to refresh your color rather than significantly lift. Ammonia-based hair colors tend to be more effective when it comes to achieving vibrant color results with some level of lift, but if you're looking for more of a radiant refresh, ammonia-free colors might be for you.
Ultimately, the best way to decide whether ammonia-free hair color is for you is by talking to your colorist. Once they know your hair history, condition and goals, they can advise on the perfect product for you – with or without ammonia.
5 Common Myths About Ammonia in Hair Color
Myth #1: Ammonia-Free Hair Color is Less Damaging
The verdict: It depends on the complete color formulation. Both ammonia and its alternatives have drawbacks when it comes to damage, but the supporting ingredients can minimize their effects.
Myth #2: Ammonia-Free Colors Don't Offer Grey Coverage
The verdict: Not true. Our demi-permanent, ammonia-free product, Color Touch, gives you up to 50% grey coverage, while Pure Perfection permanent color offers up to 100% grey coverage.
Myth #3: Ammonia-Free Color is Chemical-Free
The verdict: Not necessarily. 'Ammonia-free' only tells you that a product is formulated without ammonia, but it could contain other chemicals, such as alternative alkalizers or colorants.
Myth #4: Ammonia-Free Color Doesn't Last Long
The verdict: The presence of ammonia doesn't determine how long your color lasts. Demi-permanent and permanent colors have different levels of commitment, with demi-permanent shades giving you a lower-commitment color that gradually fades from wash to wash.
Myth #5: Ammonia is Bad For Your Hair
The verdict: Ammonia isn't necessarily bad for your hair. Sometimes it gets a bad rap, but its alkalizing qualities serve a huge purpose in hair color, especially when you want some level of lift. The question isn't whether ammonia is bad in isolation, but whether it has the right supporting ingredients to keep hair looking and feeling its best.
I Want to Try Ammonia-Free Color. What Are My Options?
Your Wella colorist is the best person to recommend your ideal color product, but if you like to go in with some upfront knowledge, here's your quick guide to our ammonia-free colors...
- For true-to-tone vibrancy and shine, ask for Color Touch. The iconic demi-permanent color offers a palette of 90+ shades, up to 50% grey coverage, and a beautifully rich finish that fades over 28 washes.
- For a translucent veil of glossy color, ask for SHINEFINITY. Leaving hair up to 250% shinier¹, this zero-damage acidic color glaze is ideal for toning blondes, correcting brassy tones and enhancing your shade with a mirror-like finish.
- For a permanent color that reduces signs of damage², ask for Pure Perfection. This one-of-a-kind permanent color improves shine (+55%) and smoothness (+45%), while leaving hair looking more nourished (+42%). Plus, it gives you up to 100% grey coverage.
"IF I HAD TO DESCRIBE PURE PERFECTION IN THREE WORDS, IT WOULD BE: PURE, WEIGHTLESS AND NATURAL.”
– Briana Cisneros (@brianacisneros), Wella Professionals Global Ambassador
Ammonia-Free Hair Color FAQs
Is Ammonia-Free Hair Color Better for Your Hair Than Traditional Dye?
Not necessarily. While ammonia-free colors may result in a gentler salon experience, the most common ammonia alternative, MEA, still needs to lift the cuticle in order to penetrate the hair shaft. How kind to your hair a color is doesn't depend on the presence of ammonia, but on the overall formulation, which may contain nourishing ingredients or technologies that counteract damage.
What are the Disadvantages of Ammonia-Free Hair Color?
MEA, the popular ammonia alternative, creates an environment in which metals already present in the hair become more reactive during the coloring process. This is especially true in permanent ammonia-free hair colors. For this reason, Wella Professionals scientists developed the Supercharged Metal Purifier, found in our permanent Pure Perfection hair color. It neutralizes these metals, including iron and copper, in turn reducing damage as your ammonia-free color develops.
Can Ammonia-Free Hair Color Cover Grey Effectively?
Yes, ammonia-free colors can cover grey effectively. It all comes down to the product you choose, with demi-permanent Color Touch blending away silver strays with up to 50% coverage, and permanent Pure Perfection providing up to 100% grey coverage.
What's the Difference Between Demi-Permanent and Permanent Ammonia-Free Hair Color?
Ammonia-free hair color can be either permanent or demi-permanent, so what's the difference? While both can use an alternative alkalizer instead of ammonia, they offer different levels of commitment, coverage and lift.
| Results | Ammonia-Free Permanent Hair Color | Ammonia-Free Demi-Permanent Hair Color |
|---|---|---|
How it works | Uses an alternative alkalizer to raise the hair's pH and help color penetrate the hair cuticle. | Uses an alternative alkalizer to penetrate only the first layers of hair and the outer surface. |
Color Longevity | Provides long-lasting color that remains until the hair grows out. | Gradually fades with washing, making it a lower-commitment option. |
Lift | Can provide significant lift, depending on the formulation. | Designed primarily for depositing tone rather than significant lift. |
Grey coverage | Can provide high levels of grey coverage when formulated for permanent color. | Can provide grey blending or coverage, depending on the product and percentage of grey. |
Best for | A significant color change, lift or maximum grey coverage. | Refreshing existing color, enhancing tone, adding shine or achieving a softer grey blend. |
Does Ammonia-Free Hair Color Work for Sensitive Scalps and Allergic Reactions?
If you're allergic to ammonia specifically, ammonia-free hair color may be a gentler option for you, but switching to these formulas doesn't guarantee you won't experience irritation or an allergic reaction.
Find a Wella Professionals Salon Near You
Ready to find your perfect ammonia-free color? Find a Wella Professionals salon near you and speak with a professional colorist about the right formula for your hair goals.